Monday, September 20, 2021

Spanish Summer

 In October of 2020 an article about cheap airfare to Europe popped up on my apple news feed. I figured that COVID would certainly be long gone by summer of 2021 and therefore snatched up cheap tickets direct from Phoenix to London. Well, things didn’t go to plan, but we did manage to get you all overseas for your first European adventure.

I figured out about 2 months prior to departure that the UK was not going to open, all the signs were pointing towards it, so I decided to pivot to a country that said it was going to open, Spain. Well the opening in April turned to May, and May to June and June to June 7th, and I had the joy of re-booking us 4 times. I am kind of surprised I didn’t get an ulcer from the stress of planning this vacation. I had my mind set to this trip, and my heart longing for adventure, and so I went boldly into possible financial folly and aggravation and a host of other bad possibilities. Yet in the end, we triumphed!

We arrived in Spain June 10th, 3 days after they lifted restrictions on Americans. Until we departed on the 25th we were some of the only English speakers in the country. Our Itinerary was 4 nights in Madrid (with two day trips to Toledo and Segovia) 2 nights in Cordoba, 2 nights in Sevilla, 3 nights in Estepona, and 3 nights in Granada, with our final night in Madrid near the airport. You three were so excited, especially you Cora- as you had the greatest understanding of what we were about to embark upon. I will say you all travel far better than your mother and I ever did as kids, we bought lounge passes as we had a long layover in Miami. Was pretty fun to see you all enjoying the comforts that brings…. cause it would come to an end on our Iberia Airlines flight. It wasn’t really that bad- but it was packed and since they want to nickel and dime you they split up our seats as I didn’t want to pay for selecting them. Cora and Deacon I sat with you, while mom took Quinn the seatmate kicker along with her. We may have been 5 of the 10 total Americans on the flight.

I don’t think I can recap the whole trip so I wanted to hit some of the highlights. Day one in Madrid was fun just to be with you all on an adventure in a foreign country. We toured the Royal Palace and it went just as I thought it would. Cora you enjoyed all of it, Deacon you perked up when there were weapons around, and Quinn you mostly wanted to find slippery floors, distract your brother, or try and get me to carry you/ find somewhere to sit. Later that day we went to Retiro Park, which was beautiful and expansive. Quinn you were dragging and pretending to be on deaths doorstep, but as a rose garden came into view you found new life and sprinted forward and preceded to run all round it smelling different varietals of roses. The park was this beautiful green oasis in the center of the city with a large lagoon, huge amounts of trees and rolling lawns, and a Crystal Palace that hosts various art displays. We made it to a very fancy dinner that night right before the sky opened up on us and had a wonderful dinner with a man I work with who is based in, and from Madrid.

We did a few day trips from Madrid, one to Segovia and then Toledo. Segovia had a beautiful castle and was surrounded by a small town perched above a river. We had a great time wandering around. Cora you bought a necklace and earrings and Deacon after being inspired by the cannons and swords in the Castle bought a toy crossbow. It was so fun seeing you guys shop and try and find things that would help you remember the places we were going to. Toledo was also a great day, we started by driving to an overlook of the city, which in this case is totally surrounded by a river and was built on the high ground in the middle. It must have been a great defensive position and I believe we read that the city was never captured by force. We walked up and down so many beautiful streets…. Also due to the fact I got us lost when trying to get out of the city and we went in circles a few times in the fun summer sun. Cora and Quinn you found some more jewelry, Deacon I got you a Toledo steel hunting knife that I hope you will keep until you are old enough to hand it down to your son or daughter. Cora we also did a zipline ride that went next to one of the bridges across the river to the other shore. It was an awesome way to see the city and I was so proud you were brave and did it. When we went to turn in our harnesses they let us ride again!

Leaving Madrid was a bit sad, but I was not going to miss parking in the smallest parking garage I ever imagined, I had nightmares about that damn thing. We headed to Cordoba next with some white washed homes and a large cathedral that began its life as a roman temple, then Muslim mosque. It was really beautiful inside and was certainly the highlight of the city. After Cordoba we went to Sevilla. I wanted to mix in some different adventures so I booked us a horseback riding trip outside the city. Deacon you got the tallest horse as usual, Quinn and I rode together. Quinn you spent most of the trip talking about how great of a horseback rider you were, telling me everything you knew about horses, and remarking how much our horse must love you. As usual the horse sensed I feared it, and decided at the end of our ride to simply lie down! I quickly stood up as it did and picked you up while stepping to the side, I wasn’t sure if the damn thing was about to roll over. The main wrangler came out as we were right by the stables and Quinn you actually rode it home as he walked it.

Sevilla was another beautiful city, bigger than Cordoba but still filled with a lot of history. It actually used to be a big port city before the river was diverted, and was home to the Kings and Queens of Spain after the reconquesta when they retook the country from the Moors. The first evening we were in the city we did a paddle boarding trip on the river. Cora you got your own board while mom took Quinn and I took Deacon, you did a pretty good job keeping up with the adults on the tour. That night we ate along the river at 9:30PM like real Spaniards and were actually pretty chilly which was a nice change. The next day I almost made us late for our tour of the Cathedral and Palace by walking to the wrong tour office after finding the wrong location for the start- so the sprint across the city was great fun and the passing Spaniards got to hear some real American curse words!

After Sevilla we headed for one of our favorite stops, Estepona, which is right on a beautiful stretch of beach overlooking the Mediterranean sea with a view of Gibraltar and North Africa in the distance. On the way to Estepona we stopped in Zahara-de-la-Sierra and Rhonda. Our stop in Zahara was so wonderful, it’s a tiny white washed city on a hill overlooking olive groves and lakes. I drove our car through the city- including a square that they closed to traffic about 10min after I drove through it… up to a trail head for our morning adventure. We hiked to a stone watchtower and got some great pictures while the clouds swirled around us. We had the top to ourselves and it was just so peaceful and beautiful, it ended up being a perfect day. We also just barely made it down the hill to wait out a rainstorm in the car before having an amazing lunch in the town. Rhonda was a briefer stop with the highlight being a bridge that was built above a deep gorge to connect the two sides of the town. Beneath it we did a really fun hike through some low fig trees and followed a really chilly creek towards the river and some good overlooks.

Getting to Estepona was just a breath of fresh air, quite literally, as we had a beachfront condo. You guys were all so excited to explore the condo and get down to the beach. We spent a lot of time hunting for big seashells. Some of my favorite memories are walking along the beach in the morning with you Deacon as we hunted and found some great ones. It was quiet as the sun rose with a few locals doing their morning walk. Cora you and I did something similar one afternoon, and all of us were collecting unique rocks and bartering with one another. Quinn you set up quite the little rock store, but as usual were very kind in your pricing for me! One of the evenings mom and I just sat back keeping each other warm as the wind started blowing stronger- watching the 3 of you build and play in the sand together. It was so fun just to watch you enjoying your lives, this place so far from home, and most of all each other. 

We did a day drive to Gibraltar- and so in a way ended up getting to the UK after all. Our dolphin watching excursion was a blast, there must have been 20 of them dancing all through the water around the boat and we had a great spot near the bow to watch them. We took a pretty creepy steep cable car to the “top of the rock”, being up there was beautiful, and the views of Morocco and Spain incredible, but made your mom very nervous about any of you getting too close to the edge. We also did another horseback ride- this one turned out better with no horses laying down. Deacon you still got the tallest horse, and Quinn you got a very spirited Pony named Mattias. He had long flowing hair like yours, and we have a great picture with the wind blowing his hair across his face while yours was doing the same thing. You loved him and spoke about him for the rest of the trip, and these months later still do.

Leaving Estepona was difficult for many reasons, but one of the most beautiful cities in Spain was next, Granada. After mom and I managed a very stressful drive through some medieval roads more suited to those on foot or horseback than in a Volvo SUV we arrived at our condo. The view from its patio was magnificent, there in the distance dominating the town on the highest point around was the Alhambra. Part fortress, palace, and royal residency it belonged to Moorish Kings and sometimes Spanish ones. We spent most of the day there and saw almost all of it. One of our favorite parts was walking the walls and the gardens that surrounded them. At one point we accidently walked down a very steep path… only to realize it did not lead where we thought and so had to climb back up again. Quinn you might not have made it but I distracted you with a giant fig leaf which you then watered for the rest of the trip in hopes it would live.

I think the last big highlight of the trip was a Flamenco dance we attended just up the hill from our house in Granada. We had a nice dinner prior and then went in for the performance. Honestly my expectations were kind of low, but the show was a lot of fun, and riveted all our attention for the entire time. It was just great seeing the artistry and passion of the dancers and musicians. Quinn you obviously could not leave Spain without a Flamenco dress, and the night after Cora did your hair up with flowers and you performed a dance for us- that you completely made up on your own, you have quite a bit of confidence when it comes to singing and dancing.

We spent one more uneventful night in Madrid near the airport, happy to be heading home but nonetheless a bit sad that our great adventure was drawing to a close. For a trip that was so stressful to plan and pull off it sure did turn out perfectly. We got to enter the country, have it mostly tourist free and to ourselves, and we all stayed healthy. Most importantly we all bonded over a shared adventure which was full of discovery and beauty. Travel is really one of my favorite things, and it was so fun to share such a big trip with you, you guys are so lucky to have had such an experience so young. Mom and I are so lucky to have you to adventure with as well.

I look forward to a future full of watching you all grow and experience this world and all it holds in different ways. During COVID there was continual talk of putting things on “pause”, “on hold”, and a lot of other phrases to say we should wait to live our lives. Thing about time is, it doesn’t wait, it only knows progress, not retreat and its march forward can be brutal as often as it is beautiful. Had we paused we would have missed something that will enrich the rest of our lives. I would not have watched the moon rise and track the sky above the Alhambra, the sun rise over the Mediterranean from our balcony in Estepona, my children in awe of things built a thousand years ago, and watching the first hand experience of growing bolder as we step out from the familiar.